Retinoids and retinol are common ingredients in skin care products, but do you know the difference between the two and how to utilise them?
While it may appear to be the newest must-have component, a form of retinoid was first licenced for use as a topical acne therapy by the US Food and Drug Administration in 1971. It was tretinoin, which minimises and prevents acne scars while also preventing pores from clogging.
Dermatologists and their patients quickly realised that this retinoid has powerful anti-aging qualities. It enhances skin tone and minimises fine lines and wrinkles by causing a faster turnover of surface skin cells and increasing collagen production.
Today, the name "retinoids" refers to a wide range of vitamin A-based skin care products. Adapalene is available in prescription and over-the-counter formulations for acne therapy; tretinoin, tazarotene, and trifarotene are topical formulations accessible by prescription for acne treatment, while isotretinoin is an oral medicine available exclusively by prescription for severe acne.
Then there's retinol, a retinoid used to treat uneven skin tone, pigmentation, and texture. It comes in a bewildering number of goods that may be purchased over the counter.
A dermatologist who is board-certified can help you decide if retinoids are good for your skin.
People with skin sensitivities or dryness are unlikely to benefit from a retinoid-containing product. "If someone has a lot of redness or inflammation in their skin, they should avoid retinoids and contact their dermatologist about other treatments for rosacea," says Anne Chapas, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist in private practise in Manhattan. "Also, persons who have moderate or severe acne scarring, or whose acne is linked to their menstrual cycles or other hormonal changes like hair development, should see a board-certified dermatologist before trying a retinoid." During pregnancy, retinoids should be avoided.
While retinoids can benefit people of all skin tones, Sonia Badreshia-Bansal, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist in private practise in Danville, California, adds that people with darker skin should be more attentive about whether a product is causing discomfort. "Irritation can cause dark spots, known as hyperpigmentation, on skin of colour," she warns. "However, beginning slowly and utilising a moisturiser can help lessen this risk."
According to Tina Alster, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist and clinical professor of dermatology at Georgetown University Medical Center in Washington, D.C., a retinoid-containing skin product is a good option for someone with mild acne, mild pigmentation irregularities, or mild fine lines and wrinkles. "Many patients want to start using tretinoin right away," she says, "but I tell them to start with the least-intense retinoid formula they can find and use it every other night to begin, gradually increasing up." "If they don't do that, their skin will become irritated."
Dr. Alster recommends using retinoids exclusively at night and always employing sun protection during the day, which includes seeking shade, wearing UV-protective clothing, such as a wide-brimmed hat, and applying sunscreen to all areas not covered by clothes. Look for a physical sunscreen that contains titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide if you have sensitive skin.
Given the variety of retinoid products available, the challenge is choose which one to test. "There is no standard requirement that the percentage of retinol be declared on the label or packaging for over-the-counter medications," explains Dr. Chapas. She suggests that you use the cheapest formulation you can find.
Bottom line: If you're thinking about using a retinol product, consult your dermatologist to see if it's right for you.